This post is part of my 90-minutes-from-Yamanashi series.

Isetan’s Shinjuku Depachika Floor Map

Depachika, Tokyo’s legendary basement food markets, are havens of culinary artistry and indulgence. Among them, the Isetan Shinjuku depachika shines as a standout—a destination that captures the essence of Japan’s dedication to quality and service.

Getting There

Conveniently accessible via Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line, Exit B3, the Isetan Shinjuku depachika invites you to dive into the heart of Tokyo’s high-end food culture. Prepare for a sensory journey unlike any other.

Fresh Market Highlights

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To immerse yourself in this dazzling showcase of food, start by exploring the items you might not buy but won’t want to miss. Head to the back of the supermarket—by my estimation, the northeast corner—where the fresh market begins. Here, you’ll find a carnivore’s paradise featuring beef, pork, chicken, and lamb. At the farthest end, prepare to be amazed by the premium cuts of beef, including blocks of Matsuzaka Beef Loin priced at a staggering ¥10,800 ($70 USD) for just 100 grams. That’s melt-in-your-mouth decadence. Continue along the meat counter to browse an array of fresh cuts and minimally prepared options like ready-to-cook, marinated tandoori chicken.

Opposite, the seafood section dazzles with its artistry. Fugu (blowfish) sashimi, delicately arranged in chrysanthemum patterns, promises an unforgettable experience. At the counter’s end, a display of luxury caviar awaits. Around it, smaller showcases feature ready-to-eat sushi (starting at $20 USD), fish cakes, sun-dried fish, legs of jamón ibérico, and artisanal sausages.

Fruits, Vegetables

Continue your counterclockwise journey to the vibrant fruit and vegetable section. Take a moment to admire the individually wrapped, ruby coloured Miyazaki mangoes priced at $35 USD each. However, if you’re craving a more accessible treat, containers of fresh mixed fruit are available for as little as $5 USD.

Café & Sucré

Continuing in the same counterclockwise direction, next to the fruit section, you will find Noix de Beurre, which draws long lines for their irresistible baked goods. This is the start of the massive Café & Sucré section selling what the Japanese refer to as Western sweets. On a regular weekday afternoon in December, I found a huge line of people waiting to buy baked goods from Noix de Beurre. It appears that there is also a section of the depachika dedicated to delivering sweets form this shop to patrons’ friends and relatives! That’s certainly high praise! Wander among countless stalls offering artisanal chocolates, cakes, cookies, and even Japan’s playful fruit-filled sandwiches.

Grande Cave: Wine & Liquor

Head to the northwest corner to find the Grande Cave, a sanctuary for wine and whisky enthusiasts. Visit the tasting counter after 2 pm to sample Western whiskies, or ask to browse their vintage wines.

Champagne and Caviar

In the far northwestern corner of the shop is Café Prunier, purveyor of fine champagne and decadent caviar. Sit at their counter without a reservation and enjoy a light meal accompanied by a glass of champagne for about $30 USD. I recently sat down to a bit of caviar and bubbly with my wife. She enjoyed a glass of white wine accompanied by mozzarella and caviar, while I had glass of champagne at a total cost of ¥4,700 or $30 USD.  

Rare Delicacies and Gourmet Confections

The entire western wall of the depachika, along the plats d’épicerie & Grand Artisan aisle, is a treasure trove of gourmet items such as caviar, truffles, exquisite dried fig confections and biscotti from Italy, honey, Hediard teas and baked goods, Fortnum & Mason’s teas, colourful macarons from Pierre Hermé, a selection of goods from The Peninsula Boutique and Café, baumkuchen and cookies from Hollandische Kakao-Stube, and the luxurious confections of Chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin. I recently sat down to a perfectly-balanced, rich cup of hot chocolate at Jean-Paul Hévin’s at a cost of about ¥1,300 or $8.00 USD. The woman who prepared my drink hand-frothed the hot chocolate for about 3 minutes! 

Deli, Beer, and Sake

At the six o’clock position (if the market were a clock), discover the Deli & Boulangerie with its wide selection of baked goods, ready-made sandwiches and salads, prepared Western dishes and Japanese bento lunches. As you move along the counter towards Exit B4, you will come upon the Premium Mario Gelateria offering unforgettable flavours like Tahitian Vanilla and Strawberry Milk (S-size, $3.50 USD). Continue counterclockwise to the Isetan Craft Beer Bar where you can enjoy tasting from 3 to 8 pm (30-minute limit per customer). Featured breweries change weekly, so the beer I tried, Grandline Brewing’s Kanpai Fuji, will not be available when you visit. However, there is an entire room of craft beers available for purchase. Directly behind the craft beer bar is a comprehensive selection of Japanese regional sake. You can even purchase individual servings of sake in collectable Imari ware porcelain cups—ideal for gifts!

Japanese Delicacies

Adjacent to the Japanese liquor section is Suinoza, specializing in Japanese foods, and Sanomichi, featuring Japanese tea and sweets. If you truly love Japanese sweets, stop in at Toraya Café to savour their delicate confections. Continue your exploration of Japanese, Chinese and Asian cuisine in the section known as Unozen. Here you will find beautifully prepared bento lunches, gorgeous salads, all manner of sushi, fried and marinated foods, rice balls, Chinese dumplings and steamed buns stuffed with tasty meats and vegetables.

Due east of this area, at about four on a clock’s face, lies Kannomi—a haven of Japanese confections.

Japanese Confections

Just outside Toraya Café, you’ll find W1 through W3,  portals to Japan’s rich tradition of sweets and tea.

W1 is devoted to exquisitely crafted wagashi, delicate sweets meant to accompany a bowl of matcha. Select at least one—you’ll want it to complement your freshly prepared matcha from W2, available for takeout at around $5 USD per cup. While you sip, consider picking up some green tea or matcha powder to take home. Then, make your way to W3, where a vast selection of Japanese teas awaits.

Retrace your steps toward W1, then veer left to discover W4 through W15, a corridor of delicate delights. W4 tempts with crisp sembei (Japanese rice crackers), tender mochi filled with sweet azuki bean paste, and a variety of traditional Japanese cakes. W5 is a trove of unusual Japanese candies, while W6 is dedicated to Castella—Japan’s beloved sponge cake, introduced by Portuguese traders in the 16th century.

W7 offers geppei, the intricate Chinese mooncake, brimming with fillings like sweet bean paste, fruit, nuts, and fragrant seed pastes. Here, you’ll also find ichigo daifuku—a luscious combination of mochi, sweet red bean paste, and fresh strawberry—alongside more rice crackers. W8 showcases an assortment of mixed sweets, while W10 and W11 continue the parade of rice crackers and cakes.

At W12, you’ll encounter the ever-popular hato-sabure—delicate, bird-shaped cookies—as well as sweet red bean-covered rice cakes. W13 offers yet more wagashi, alongside a rare treat: dried persimmon mille-feuille layered with slabs of butter, a favorite pairing for sparkling wine at my preferred Japanese winery. W14, once again, celebrates Castella cakes, and at W15, you’ll find dorayaki—fluffy pancake sandwiches filled with sweet red bean paste.

Wait—did we miss something? Along the wall, W6 and W9 await. W6, once more, presents Castella, while W9 specializes in fuwa-fuwa wanuki, irresistibly soft Japanese pancakes filled with airy cream.

Just beyond these stalls, long queues form—patient customers eager to claim the most sought-after sweets in the district. Whether they’re worth the wait, I cannot say. But in Japan, the devotion to exquisite confections knows no bounds.

Chef’s Selection and Final Delights

Finally, if you have been moving in a counterclockwise direction, you will find yourself in the heart of the food emporium in the Chef’s Selection area. This central area brims with artisan coffees, teas, salad dressings, the Kitchen Stage where you can watch the menus of Tokyo’s finest chefs being prepared for delighted patrons (no reservation required, open from 10:30 to 19:00), spices, pastas, sauces, olive oils available for tasting, packaged meals, miso, rice, tofu, and cheeses. Nearby the escalators, the Food Collection showcases ready-made Japanese dishes, pickles, and teas—proof that the wonders of Isetan Shinjuku truly never stop.

Update: My wife and I arrived at the Kitchen Stage around 11:00 am on a random Monday and were immediately seated. We chose the basic 3-course menu for both of us for a total of ¥9,900 or $64 USD. I had a generous portion of Wagyu Ragù as my main dish, while she had the seafood pasta. The meal wasn’t overly filling, but that’s fine as there is so much on offer as you exit the Kitchen Stage area. The meal wasn’t inexpensive, but you don’t go to Isetan to save money! All in for 2 people, you can enjoy some high-end dining, champagne and dessert for less than ¥20,000 or $130 USD. If you are on a budget, and it’s a sunny day, I suggest you buy a delicious bento and ride the elevator to the roof of the department store for a bit of alfresco dining!

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Copyright ©  David Ellis | All Rights Reserved

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